spray painted glock

Spray Painted Glock - Whether you're on a tight budget, or ready to tackle a big project, giving your gun a custom paint job has never been easier.

The best way for the DIY hobby gunsmith to finish the metal and often the stock or grip of a gun is with a spray-on coating. Spray coating is much easier to handle than traditional methods such as hot stamping, which require a lot of equipment and the use of nasty chemicals.

Spray Painted Glock

Spray-on coatings come in many colors and textures and can be applied to almost any material. They also protect gunmetal from rust and act as a barrier against corrosive agents.

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Spray-on coating has become the standard for many custom builders of hunting, tactical or target pistols. Blueing is traditional and has a certain visual appeal, but for a work gun that sees a lot of field time, spray coating makes more sense. It is less expensive, will protect the gun, conceal in the field, and is much easier to maintain or repair.

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Before finishing any firearm, you must disassemble the gun. Make sure it's not loaded and take a few pictures before you start to help you get everything back. Remove any shafts, grips, sights, scopes and scope mounts. It is best to break the gun as far as you can and are comfortable doing.

All parts must be clean and degreased. Acetone works very well for this. Also, Brakleen sprays do a good job of getting into cracks and crevices.

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Finally, each part must be cleaned and completely degreased with a solvent that dries without residue. From this point on, do not handle degreased parts without clean gloves.

The hole must be plugged with a tapered silicone plug. Other areas not to be covered must be taped off with masking tape. Always wear a respirator, not a cheap paint mask, but a high quality respirator when spraying or spraying. Safety glasses are a must and leather gloves when sandblasting.

Do some practice on a piece of cardboard with the spray gun or ratchet to find out how best results are achieved. With a spray gun or airbrush, adjust to the recommended pressure and spray distance for the product you are using. It may take some experimentation with the air mixture and the paint to get it right. You want beautiful, even, thin skin. Use too much and it will look like paint, not gun finish. It also gets corroded which means you have to wash it and take it again. If you have too much air and not enough coating, or you are too far from the object to paint, the sprayed paint can partially dry before coating the metal. This results in a rough, matte finish that is not durable. So, practice, practice, practice; then spray on your gun.

Further preparation depends on your resources. It is covered in each of the three sections that follow. Of course, the end result will be reflected in the work you do on the gun.

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Let's be clear, the best way to spray paint is to prep the metal by sandblasting. It roughens the surface which allows the paint to adhere better. The best coatings are applied with an adjustable spray gun powered by an air compressor.

But recognize that it's not always possible in a DIY situation. Fear not, you can improve your gun without sandblasting or spray guns and the results can be quite amazing.

DuraCoat and Brownells Aluma-Hyde II air-dried coatings are available in milk powder. The rattle can is named after the metal balls in the can that mix the liquid and create a distinctive "shaking" sound when you shake the can. These cans are pressurized like all cans of spray paint and can provide a nice air dry finish on the firearm.

Some products can be used over the old finish, most cannot. Check the instructions for each product. DuraCoat says that the metal can be roughened with a Scotch-Brite pad and sprayed onto the degreased metal. I did this with some success.

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DuraCoat also has a new product called No Sand. After degreasing, applying No Sand with a Scotch-Brite pad to all metal surfaces helps prepare the surface for the final application of DuraCoat.

Prepare a degreased surface. Tap the hole and tape off any other places you don't want covered with masking tape. Hang the pieces from the wires. Always practice on some debris to get a feel for spray volume and pattern. Spray on the paint in thin layers. It is better to use several thin coats than one thick one. Follow instructions for recoating.

Once the item is coated to your satisfaction, let it hang and cure. Follow the recommended drying time on the can. Do not handle the pieces before the recommended drying time.

With gunpowder, like so many things in life, preparation is everything. Best results will come from sandblasting the metal. One way is to find a metalworking shop near you and pay them to replace the parts. If you do this, be sure to degrease the metal after you cannot guarantee the cleanliness of the operating environment.

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Or you can buy the equipment to do it yourself. Of course, an air compressor with a tank large enough to withstand the pressure of an explosion is required.

Using blast cabinets is the best method. However, you can get by with an inexpensive gravity sandblaster. Before I bought a cabinet, I used my hand sander on a 55 gallon plastic barrel to get some of the sand for reuse, or thought the sander was a consumable and just bought more. However, do this outside as you don't want sanding dust in your shop. Always wear a respirator, safety glasses and heavy gloves. Don't think you can get by without gloves; sooner or later you will break it and beat your hand. Without gloves it hurts like hell.

Sand the parts with 100 grit aluminum oxide. Use 80 to 100 psi for metal and 30-40 psi for non-metallic items such as wood, fiberglass, plastic, or polymer. Anodized aluminum parts require only 30-40 psi. There is no need to remove the anodization, but you should strengthen it.

After the farm, nothing should be shiny; all parts should have a uniform and matte finish. If there are bright spots anywhere, hit again.

Spray Painted Glock

Obviously, if you are sandblasting, you have an air compressor. Given this, it is better to buy a spray gun as well. There are many options for air drying before coating. Among the most popular are DuraCoat, Cerakote and Gun Kote. They are made for use in an HVLP spray gun with a 0.8 mm nozzle.

A spray gun gives you more coating options and much more control over the spray as you work. Spray guns are not terribly expensive. You can find them online for about $15. Mine was $50 and has lasted four years and many projects so far.

Professionals use heat cured skin. Not only is this a much shorter time from spray to assembly, but heat-cured coatings are believed to be a more durable end product.

Baking products include Cerakote H and Elite, DuraCoat's DuraBake, some Brownells, Gun-Kote and Teflon/Moly. The list goes on with many other products on the market, but this is what I have experience using. If the pieces have gone into the oven, it is better to use heat resistant tape to hide areas you are not coating.

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If you are going to use heat cured leather, I strongly recommend that you read the instructions and follow the recommendations they contain. There are still some differences in the procedure.

Most oven cured products require some time to emulsify some of the materials before placing the coated part in the oven. The key is to hang them free from touching anything. A little bump or brush and you have to do it all over again.

One word about it. Always have a bucket of solvent ready for madness. You will have several, so use the recommended solvent to remove the spray coating and start over.

For small pieces, a toaster oven with a toaster oven works well to "bake" the skin. I added an oven thermometer to mine for better temperature control. I also have some magnetic hooks that attach to the top and they work great for hanging things.

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If you plan to cure in an oven a

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